Shavers love to argue about razors the way espresso fans argue about grinders. You can get a good shave many ways, but the tool changes everything: technique, pace, even what blades you favor. Few comparisons spark more debate than the Merkur 34C versus the Henson razor. They aim at the same end — a smooth face with a single blade razor — yet they take wildly different routes. One stands on the shoulders of traditional safety razors, the other borrows tolerances from the aerospace world. I’ve spent years rotating both into my routine, and I’ve put them into the hands of beginners and veterans. The choice becomes clear once you understand what each razor actually asks of you.
What each razor is, and what it means for your shave
The Merkur 34C is a two-piece, German-made safety razor with a short, stout handle and a scalloped safety bar. It uses standard double edge razor blades and lands in the mild-to-medium range. If you’ve ever read a wet shaving forum, you’ve seen it nicknamed the HD, short for Heavy Duty, because of its chunky profile and no-nonsense feel. It is a workhorse, forgiving enough for a first safety razor, but with enough blade exposure to mow down two days of growth without protest.
The Henson, by contrast, is a modern, CNC-machined single blade razor that takes the same double edge razor blades yet clamps them with unusually tight tolerances. The head geometry guides you to a shallow angle. You can buy it in different levels, most commonly the mild (often just called Henson) and the medium (Henson +). There is also an aggressive variant. The design philosophy prioritizes safety and chatter-free cutting. Think of it as a guardrail that keeps you in the optimal lane.
Both are safety razors in the classic sense, not a Shavette or straight razor. Unlike a disposable razor with a stack of cartridges, these use a single blade edge at a time, and the choice of safety razor blades matters. The fun part is you can tune both razors with the same box of double edge razor blades, yet they reward different choices.
Build and materials that shape the experience
The Merkur 34C is cast from Zamak with a plated finish. Zamak gets a bad rap in some corners, usually from folks who have had vintage brass razors last longer than https://israelbkvx399.bearsfanteamshop.com/cigar-accessories-gift-guide-pairing-humidors-with-classic-razors their marriages. The truth is simpler. If you avoid dropping it on tile and you rinse and dry it, the plating holds up for many years. My oldest 34C is over a decade old with only a faint dulling on the knurling. The heft sits mostly in the head and the short handle provides leverage without encouraging you to push. This balance matters. Many beginners press too hard. The 34C nudges you toward letting the edge do the work.
The Henson head is machined aluminum with an anodized finish, and it pairs with an aluminum handle. The razor is light, even airy, especially compared to the Merkur. That low mass is on purpose. The company markets its aerospace origins and tight tolerances, and the fit and finish support the claim. The top cap and base plate align the blade evenly across its full length, which reduces chatter. The razor feels almost surgical in the hand, with crisp edges and a modern aesthetic you do not hide in the medicine cabinet. If you prefer more weight, Henson also offers a titanium version. The titanium model shifts the balance while keeping the same geometry.
In daily use, the Merkur’s weight glides through lather with a steady, anchored feel. The Henson feels nimble and extremely precise. Neither is better universally, but your preference for weight often predicts which you’ll love.
Angle, pressure, and the learning curve
Every safety razor teaches you a language of angle and pressure. The 34C speaks the more classic dialect. You ride the cap slightly, keep the handle a bit away from your face, and make short strokes. If you come from an edge razor cartridge with a pivot, your muscle memory may drive the handle too close and the blade angle too steep. That is when the 34C will remind you to adjust, usually with a little scrape on the neck. Give it two or three shaves and it clicks. The audible feedback is clear, a soft sandpapery hiss that tells you the lather cushion and blade are interacting well.
The Henson reduces variables. Its head geometry almost locks in the angle. Place the top cap flat on your skin, then lower the handle until the blade just engages. The shallow angle and rigid clamping discourage chatter. It is hard to overshave a spot because the razor doesn’t reward excessive pressure. For beginners, this can feel like guard rails on a mountain road: limits your mistakes, gets you to your destination. For experts chasing a BBS under the jawline, the guard rails still allow finesse, but they do shape your technique.
I have coached new wet shavers who struggled for months with a vintage open comb, then shaved irritation-free the first time with a Henson. I have also seen experienced shavers who missed the adjustable nuance of angle the 34C offers. Choose the lesson you want your razor to teach.
Efficiency, closeness, and the second-day test
Closeness is where the Merkur 34C and Henson diverge a bit, especially if you stretch the time between shaves. On one or two days of growth, both razors deliver a DFS or better without drama, assuming you prep well with a good shaving soap and a hydrated lather. On three days of growth, the 34C tends to feel more authoritative. The slightly higher mass and a touch more blade exposure let it cut through thicker stubble without as many repeat strokes. If you like to mow the lawn once a weekend, the 34C earns its reputation.
The Henson can handle multiple days of growth, but it prefers a deliberate approach. Use a slick lather and resist the urge to bear down. If you choose the medium Henson, you will close the gap with the 34C and might exceed it on the neck, where the controlled angle prevents over-exfoliation. With the mild Henson, you may add an extra pass. The trade is that your skin often feels calmer afterward. Many of my clients with sensitive skin report less heat on the jawline with the Henson, especially in winter.
There is also the second-day test. With the 34C, I often feel a faint hint of stubble by late evening after a morning shave on a tough beard. With the Henson medium, same prep and blade, I’ve matched or slightly beaten that longevity, likely due to cleanly cut hair shafts at a consistent angle. Your results will vary, especially with different hair texture. Curly and coarse growth complicate the picture.
Blade pairing: not all double edge razor blades behave the same
Blade choice can tilt the verdict. The Merkur 34C plays nicely with a wide range of razor blades. Classic pairings like Astra Superior Platinum, Personna Lab Blue, and Gillette Nacet strike a balance of sharp and smooth. For my beard, the Feather High Stainless works, but it sharpens the character of the 34C into a more assertive razor, best once your technique is solid. If you chase comfort, a mid-sharp blade around the 7 out of 10 range tends to shine in the 34C, giving you margin on the neck and under the nose.
The Henson rewards very sharp yet well-finished blades. Feather and Bic Chrome Platinum feel at home in the Henson because the rigid clamping controls chatter and the shallow angle reduces the risk of digging in. With a milder blade, the mild Henson can feel too gentle, requiring extra passes. The medium Henson broadens your choices. If your region favors certain brands — say you buy razor blades in bulk or order from Henson Shaving Canada — it is worth sampling a blade pack. A dozen blades to test will tell you more than a dozen internet opinions.
One note on longevity. In my hands, blades last about the same number of shaves in both razors, often three to five shaves depending on prep and beard thickness. If you push to seven, you will feel it first on the upper lip.
Comfort, irritation, and tricky terrain
For anyone with sensitive skin, especially on the neck where hair grows in swirls, comfort wins races. The Henson is very good here. Its guarded, shallow angle makes buffing safer. You can do gentle, short strokes across the grain without raising red flags. I still recommend no more than three passes, plus light touch-ups. If you feel tempted to chase perfection with a dozen repeat strokes, switch to a slicker soap and reset your lather instead. The razor is not the only variable.
The 34C can be equally kind if you respect the angle and never press. The solid bar is smooth and the razor glides well with a hydrated lather. Where it bites is on rushed mornings, especially around the Adam’s apple. Too steep, too fast, and you get that telltale weeper. If you take your time, it rewards you with a grounded, satisfying shave that feels traditional in the best sense.
Around facial hair, both razors edge well. The Henson has a slightly tighter head profile, which helps under the nose when clearing a mustache line. The Merkur’s shorter handle gives good control for shaping sideburns. If you regularly maintain a goatee, the Henson’s predictability makes it easier to repeat the exact angle every day.
Build longevity and maintenance
The Merkur 34C is as simple as it gets. Loosen the knob, lift the cap, load the blade, tighten down. Threads are sturdy. The plating resists corrosion if you rinse and pat dry. Should you leave lather to dry in the knurling, it will look dull, but it cleans with a soft toothbrush. The only failure mode I have seen is a cracked plating from a hard drop onto a stone floor.
The Henson’s anodized finish holds up very well. Aluminum will not rust, but the finish can scuff if you toss it in a travel kit with metal objects. The head tolerances prefer a clean blade seat, so rinse off soap residue before storage. Because it uses a standard DE blade, you have no proprietary cartridge costs, same as the Merkur.
If you travel with either, wrap the head or carry a small case. I know shavers who slip a cork or a blade guard over the edge to protect it in a dopp kit with other Razors or cigar accessories. A little care prevents a lot of annoyance.
Cost of ownership
Upfront, the Merkur 34C costs less than the Henson in titanium, and often less than the Henson aluminum depending on region and promotions. Ongoing costs are the same: double edge razor blades run cents per shave when bought in bulk. Compare that to a disposable razor or multi-blade cartridge at several dollars per head, and the math tilts sharply in favor of safety razors. If you shave daily, you will recoup the cost difference in a few months.
Accessories matter more than many people admit. A solid shaving brush and dependable shaving soap do more to protect your skin than any marketing claim. Lather cushion and slickness let a single blade razor do its job. If you are coming from canned foam, your first pass with a good soap will feel like your razor just leveled up.
Who should pick the Merkur 34C
Choose the Merkur 34C if you value a traditional safety razor feel with mild-to-medium efficiency, a bit of heft, and versatility across blade brands. It suits a beginner who is willing to learn angle, as well as an experienced shaver who wants a daily driver that does not demand perfect focus on every stroke. If you often shave two or three days of growth, the 34C is reassuring. It is also a great platform if you plan to explore. You can learn with it, then branch out to open combs, adjustables, or even try a Shavette or straight razor later with confidence in your fundamentals. The 34C teaches the core skills you can transfer.
Who should pick the Henson
Choose the Henson if you want an intuitive, low-irritation shave and you appreciate modern engineering guiding the angle. It is ideal for sensitive skin, for anyone who shaves daily and wants consistency, and for those who prefer sharp blades tamed by rigid clamping. If you have struggled with razor burn under the jaw or on the neck with other safety razors, the Henson mild or medium often solves it without technique overhauls. It also helps if you like the lighter, nimble feel. If you value near-effortless results more than the ritual of mastering a broader angle range, the Henson is your friend.
A note on lather, prep, and the quiet variables
Razor debates ignore how much prep influences the result. Both the 34C and the Henson thrive on a slick, hydrated lather. Load your brush until the tips look heavy, then add water slowly until the lather stretches and shines. I face lather most mornings. On dry winter days, I bowl lather to better control hydration. Thirty seconds of extra work pays off in fewer strokes and less irritation.
Mapping your grain matters more than the razor choice. Run your fingertips over clean stubble to feel direction. Your first pass goes with the grain everywhere. Second pass across the grain, adjusting direction by zone. Only go against the grain if your skin tolerates it and the lather supports it. If you are prone to ingrowns, skip full ATG on the neck and instead do a second, lighter across-the-grain pass. This holds true whether you use a Merkur, a Henson, or a vintage adjustable from the 60s.
Edge cases and exceptions
Thick, wire-like beards with sensitive skin present the classic challenge. Here, the Henson medium paired with a very sharp blade can remove hair efficiently without demanding pressure. Combine with a pre-shave routine — warm water, thorough rinse, maybe a gentle pre-shave oil if your soap is not especially slick — and you will keep the skin calm. If your skin is tolerant and you crave closeness in two passes, the 34C with a sharp blade can be more satisfying, especially on the cheeks and chin.
If you have shaky hands, arthritis, or you shave in the shower without a mirror, the Henson’s enforced angle gives peace of mind. If you love to tinker, experiment with blades, and enjoy the tactile feedback of weight, the Merkur indulges that hobbyist streak.
Travelers sometimes ask which packs better. The Henson’s head is a bit wider but thinner, the Merkur head is thicker but shorter. In tight Dopp kits, I find the 34C’s shorter handle easier to stow. If you travel frequently and want to minimize risk, bring a blade tuck and buy aftershave at your destination. Airport security rules vary, and double edge razor blades are often restricted in carry-on luggage.
Quick decision snapshot
- You want classic feel, a bit of weight, and a forgiving daily driver that scales to two or three days of growth: pick the Merkur 34C. You want predictable angle control, low irritation, and a nearly foolproof path to a comfortable shave: pick the Henson (mild for very sensitive skin, medium for most).
Technique tips to get the most from each
- For the Merkur 34C: start with the cap touching your skin and lower the handle until you hear gentle cutting, then lock that angle. Use no pressure. Let the weight carry the blade. Keep strokes short around curves. For the Henson: place the top cap flat, then lower until the blade just engages. Maintain that shallow angle. If you feel tugging, add a touch more water to your lather or switch to a sharper blade.
Final thoughts grounded in real use
Neither razor is a gimmick. The Merkur 34C earned icon status because it delivers consistent, comfortable results for a wide range of faces. It is the Toyota Corolla of safety razors, and I mean that as praise. The Henson brings an engineer’s discipline to a century-old tool. Its geometry removes guesswork and reduces irritation, especially for shavers who do not want to babysit every angle decision before coffee.
If you already own a favorite brush and soap, either razor will elevate your routine beyond a disposable razor. If you are assembling a kit from scratch, budget for good lather before you chase titanium handles or exotic finishes. Your skin will notice the soap more than the metal.
I keep both in rotation. On busy weekdays when I value a calm neck and a quick, clean result, I reach for the Henson medium with a Feather and a slick tallow soap. On weekends, or when growth is thicker, the Merkur 34C with a Nacet feels right, paired with a richer, cushiony cream. That mix keeps shaving enjoyable rather than a chore. There is no single champion, only the right tool for your face, your schedule, and your preferences. If you start with one and later add the other, you will learn what kind of safety razors you truly prefer, and you will carry that knowledge into every future shave.